Sydney Harbour’s blue horizon peeks out fleetingly through gaps between towering mansions onto Carthona Avenue. Sandstone slabs carved in the gothic revival style stand between me and the next beach on my quest. It’s a residence supposedly so historically significant it deserves its own Wikipedia page – a gem in the crown of the Bushells Tea family fortune – with its own private beach.
But you can’t own a beach, man. Unlike the situation for our
friends over in Europe and the Americas, the beautiful sandy beaches here in
Australia are free for everyone to enjoy. All of them are technically Crown
land, public assets for public use.
Yet, backed by four private properties and their lap pools, this beach isn’t
quite so easy for us common folk to enjoy. With access restricted from the
land I’ll need to hit the water.
So, I scurry out of the avenue’s unpromising dead end twisting
up to my car parked on the hill. My deflated kayak, still sandy from my trip in
North Harbour, awaits me. I pump new life into it and begin the difficult drag
down the hill to sea.
Down through McKell Park, I puff past picnickers assembled on the terraced
lawns of historic
cottages above exotic manicured gardens. Down, down, I descend to the Darling Point ferry wharf protruding from a sea
wall. The sprays of gentle waves
brush against me as I cast into the ocean.
First, I detour away from Carthona’s coast ducking under jetties to the west to
discover McKell Park’s own “private” beach, a 20 metre pocket of sand wedged
between an open boatshed and a line of waterfront houses. From the shore I
enjoy postcard views of Sydney Harbour out to Clark Island, a former
lieutenant’s vegetable garden and now tranquil picnic attraction.
Soon back on track to Carthona I dodge flashing ferries and fishing lines to
make my way intact. A menacing stare darts to meet me from the
shadows of an arched window seal gothic styled; Mr Bushell watches as he sips
on his cup of tea.
Mr Bushell's Lair & Stretch of Carthona Ave Beach |
But as I drift ashore onto Crown land I know that I’ll be safe. Even the multi-billionaire caffeine mogul cannot deny my rights. I stretch out my towel and stay a while, a win for common folk.