Western Sydney Beaches (Penrith Beach, Lake Paramatta, Simmos Beach)

Stale air smothers my skin, choking me in the stifling heat. Sweat beads on my forehead form a river torrent, distributaries cascading down my neck, spine, and across my chest. A shirt long abandoned, my slippery skin clings reluctantly to the car seat, irritable fidgeting gaining me no relief. I roll down the window to invite in some airflow, but there are no RSVPs on this hot summer’s day. All I can do is watch as the temperature display on my dashboard gradually rises. Thirty-four degrees. Thirty-five. Thirty-six.

Low-rise brick buildings, wide windows, car dealerships, and roller doors – this isn’t the scenery I remember from past trips to Bondi. A steady flow of traffic in the other direction adds to my confusion, each passing car seemingly scoffing at me, engines growling as if they know something I don't. Yet my GPS stays adamant, insisting I continue westwards down Paramatta Road and onto the M4.

Stretching on for an eternity, the motorway finally gives way to a sprawling carpark, stranded amongst open paddocks. There’s no sign of the Bondi staples— Range Rovers inching into tight beachside spots, backpackers’ vans wedged between surf racks, Mercedes-Benz G-Wagons perched outside trendy cafés. Instead, the lot is packed with Holden Commodores, Ford Falcons, and Toyota Hiluxes, each proudly displaying Penrith Panthers stickers.

And then it hits me—like a punch to the gut. A damn typo. One wrong letter. I’m not in Bondi, I’m in bloody Pondi.

Officially known as Penrith Beach, the site was originally a sand quarry on Nepean Lagoon before a $1.7 million investment transformed it into a man-made beach in late 2023. A further $2.5 million upgrade then saw it reopen in December 2024 for an extended summer season, featuring a larger beach, improved amenities, and enhanced water quality monitoring systems.

Penrith Beach

With temperatures in Sydney’s west often soaring up to 10 degrees hotter than the coast - and many residents more than an hour’s drive from the ocean - the new beach has been eagerly welcomed as an essential spot for westies to cool down in the summer.

Lake Paramatta has also been recently upgraded with this in mind. Here, 40km away in the heart of western Sydney, a small gravely beach gently slopes into calm water, framed by 73-hectares of native bushland reserve. Outside the beach’s designated swimming area, people float aimlessly on inflatable donuts, drift past on swan-shaped pedal boats, and jump in from rocky edges.  Beyond the water, winding walking trails weave through the bush for a shaded escape into nature.

Lake Paramatta

Until the spots in Penrith and Parramatta opened, the only beach Western Sydneysiders could call their own was the small stretch of sand known as Simmos Beach along the Georges River in Sydney’s outer southwest. Located in the densely populated suburb of Macquarie Fields, the swim spot has long been a locals’ favourite. Since the 1970s, in particular, it has been the centrepiece of a nature reserve, regenerated with native vegetation and complete with walking trails, barbecue facilities, and picnic tables

Still, only small, the beach could never accommodate the crowds that Pondi now can. And that’s something to appreciate. True, Penrith may be no ocean beach. No hordes of surfers chasing grand swells — just kayaks and canoes gliding across the still water. No rows of towels laid out for tanning—but picnic rugs, barbies, and loaded eskies. No sneaky seagulls swooping for chips – only ominous crows hovering above.  

But despite the mix-up, I find myself drawn to its water just the same.  It’s no Bondi, but the cool, fresh lagoon beckons me anyway. The water might not have the ocean’s waves or its crystal-blue colour, but it’s still a relief – something to wash away the heat on a scorching summer’s day.

Total beaches: 98/179

Georges River Baths (Jewfish Bay, Oately Pleasure Grounds, Carrs Point Baths)

Muddy sand engulfs my feet as I trudge towards the low-tide shallow water of Jewfish Bay Baths. With each step it becomes harder to free my feet from the sand’s eager grip, a hungry endeavour to swallow me whole into its vast belly beneath. A sulfuric stench of stomach fumes rises above in anticipation of the coming feast. Agile crabs heed the warning, scuttering away from the feeding zone. They mock me with their ease of movement, lightly gliding across the sand before disappearing into the murky water.

I should have known better. Much of the Georges River, the main tributary of Botany Bay, located in Sydney’s south and south-west, is deemed unsafe for swimming. Due to stormwater and sewage leaks the water here can be both toxic and contaminated with high concentrations of pathogenic microbes.

Sharks are also a problem, with deadly bull sharks known to travel as far up as Liverpool Weir, 45 kilometres from the sea. Although it’s been some time since an attack, there were a number of recorded fatalities throughout the 1930s and ‘40s when the river was cleaner and swimming here was much more common.

For this reason, as part of my quest, I’ve decided not to swim at many of the beaches that dot the middle and upper parts of the river all the way up towards Chipping Norton Lake in Sydney’s west. The lower part of the river, on the other hand, is supposedly safe, with pollutants here flushed out by tidal water movement, and a number of netted enclosures protecting swimmers from sharks.

Jewfish Bay is one of them, its mighty 320-metre shark-proof net protecting vast swimming baths, backed by a narrow beach and the lush vegetation of Oatley Park.  

Jewfish Bay

I wrestle here aginst the persistant clutches of the sand until a final determined leap launches me into the waist-high water. Keeping my feet off the seafloor, I paddle pooch-like from the peril, before clambering to safety up onto the bath’s pontoon, stranded in solitude in the middle of the bay.  I lie here blanketed in the warmth of the sun and the cicada-cum-cockatoo hum of the Australian bushland that looms over the bay.

A venture into this bush, through Oatley Park, will bring you up to the Oatley Castle – a remnant of Sydney’s alternate medieval past repurposed for barbeques and picnics. Further up and Websters Lookout provides views over the grand Georges River, pointing us south-eastwards towards our next destinations.

The Como Tidal Baths is the first of these, located across the river on its southern banks. While there’s not technically a beach here – unless you count the sliver of sand in one of its corners – I’m giving it an honourable mention as one of the few netted enclosures on the river.

The baths here offer cleaner access to the water than Jewfish Bay, with boardwalks on either side from which you can descend via ladders or dive straight in. Or, for those who still fear the odd pathogen lurking, a dip amongst chants of “Marco Polo” is also possible in the chlorine pool directly behind.  Afterwards, you can enjoy a meal at one of the riverside cafes before a pleasurable stroll through the aptly named Como Pleasure Grounds beneath palms, gums, and figs that arch over the water.

Equally pleasurable are the Oatley Pleasure Grounds back on the northern side of the river. Here, located at the bottom of a steep, meandering path, down a hill and through a tunnel of trees, you'll find the netted Oatley Bay Baths. At high tide the small swimming area provides for a refreshing swim, at low a place to wander longingly over the sandy bank in wait of the returning current.

A family of ducks greets me when I visit, waddling in sequence, one after the other, out of the water and up the concrete stairs, before spreading their wings to dry in the sun. Birds' songs call out to them from the trees above, intermittently breaking the stillness of the late afternoon bay.

Carrs Point Baths - the river’s final netted enclosure before reaching Botany Bay - is much more lively today. I’m greeted by traditional Greek tunes puppeteering a hand-linked audience dancing the circular Kalamatianos. Behind them stretches an Aegean Sea of people, mingling between carnival games and stalls of jewellery, candles, food, and decorations. A smoked-scented air of souvlaki, octopus, spanakopita, and halloumi pervades all over.

I’ve stumbled into the Greek Summer Festival. With the surrounding suburbs home to a large proportion of Sydney’s sizeable Greek community, the festival is held on the parklands here each year to showcase the people’s vibrant culture.

Greek Summer Ferstival by Carrs Point Baths

Joining in the celebration, I grab myself a haloumi gyros before squeezing my way through the crowds down to the shore. I blanket my towel between sets of beach chairs filled with elderly Mediterranean folk reclined luxuriously under the final spurts of the sun’s embrace. With the day getting on, I sneak in a final dip in the river, before returning to shore to watch festive fireworks blasting colour across a lilac-canvased sky. 

But I don’t stay long, distracted by skin starting to prickle, a burning sensation beginning to simmer, a reddening colour on the verge of bursting all over. The microbes are swarming, and I need to go home for a long, deep shower.

Total Beaches: 90/179

 

Parramatta & Lane Cove Rivers’ Beaches (Bayview Park, Chiswick Baths, Putney Beach, Bedlam Bay, Greenwich Baths, Woolwich Baths)

A pied shag perches itself on the net of Bayview Park’s swimming enclosure, its wings spread wide drying black feathers underneath the late afternoon sun. In its hooked bill squirms a hapless fish freshly plucked from the Parramatta River. Protecting its catch, the water bird’s green eyes, sparkling like emeralds, peer out guardedly over the riverscape. Suspicions mount as its eyes lock with mine bobbing on the water; a deep guttural grunt starkly accuses me of eyeing its lunch.

I can’t help but be a little offended. A toastie grabbed earlier from the local café has already done wonders to satiate my hunger. And I don’t really feel like sashimi today anyway. But my confutations fail to soothe my weary feathered foe, my voice drowned out by the beating of wings steering off into the distance.

A pied shag in flight / Glen Fergus / CC BY-SA 2.5

I try not to take it personally, reminding myself that the pied shag’s likely still not accustomed to so many people round here. The beach at Bayview Park has only opened again recently for the first time since the 1960s. Originally established in the 1930s, it was once a popular place to swim but closed in 1969 due to pollution of the waterway. However, a $700,000 revitalisation project from the City of Canada Bay, Sydney Water, and the Paramatta River Catchment Group has now revitalised the river and reduced pollution. According to water and sediment tests conducted over the last few years, the site is safe again for swimming.

To accompany the reopening of the site, a netted enclosure, picnic facilities, outdoor showers, and an improved access to the foreshore have also been added. There’s also a boat ramp, barbeques, a playground, and toilets.

Bayview Park netted beach

With this, Bayview Park joins a handful of other swimmable spots on the Parramatta River, including two other beaches. There’s Cabarita Beach, where I’ve visited before. Located at the northern end of the expansive Cabarita Park, it’s perfect for a quick dip after picnicking under the shade of a giant fig tree. And there’s Chiswick Baths, a small beach complete with netted enclosure about 25 metres in length, backed by a steep, grassy slope that leads to picnic seats and barbeques. Swims can also be had on the river at Dawn Fraser Baths and Lake Paramatta.

Other beaches have also followed Bayview Park, added in 2025 as part of a larger effort to make all of the Parramatta River swimmable. January saw the opening of Putney Beach located on Putney Park. This spot is for the families, with a huge playground, kiddies pool, and large areas for picnics under the shade of towering gum trees. The beach itself is a small stretch of sand beneath sandstone steps, leading into shallow water within a netted enclosure — perfect for a splash.

Bedlam Bay followed in November — a small, secluded beach reached after a stroll past the imposing sandstone buildings of the heritage Gladesville Mental Hospital, where cricket games now play out on what were once its grounds. The beach lies beneath overhanging trees, its sand littered with sticks, leaves, and pinecones. Oyster rocks and squishy sand guard the entrance to the netted enclosure, but those who push through are rewarded with a tranquil float beside gently dipping, anchored boats.

There are also a couple beaches on the Lane Cove River, a northern tributary of the Parramatta River. At the river’s opening, at Greenwich Baths, you can enjoy stunning views of Sydney’s skyline and Cockatoo Island while lounging in a beach chair - calamari, fish and chips, and iced coffee in hand fresh from the café. The protected inlet and shark proof net provides ideal conditions for calm and gentle laps, while toddlers can splash in the shallows or play with the supplied beach toys.

Woolwich Baths, meanwhile, on the sleepy southern side of the Lane Cove River, is a perfect place to stretch out under the sun, either on the boardwalk or two pontoons. Here you can enjoy views back on the riverside Moreton Bay Figs or out to anchored yachts floating beyond the shark net, before diving in for a dip amongst peaceful jelly fish.

There are now plans to make the whole of the Parramatta River swimmable by 2025, with swim spots allocated for Bedlam Bay, Mcllwaine Park, and Putney Park. With all these new places to swim, it seems the local river birds are just going to have to get used to us. And who knows? In time they might even share their lunch. 

Total beaches: 79/170 

Hacking River (Wants Beach & Shallow Rock Reserve)

The emerald waters of the Hacking River flow 42 kilometres north east from deep within the Royal National Park into the estuary at Port Hacking on the outskirts of Southern Sydney. Along the banks sit lush rainforest and eucalypt towered over by sandstone cliffs.

A river rich in wildlife, at shallow depths the spotted backs of jollytail fish poke out, joined by long finned eels, migrants from the ocean. As it deepens turtle shells float on by, splashed occasionally by a hungry platypus diving down for dinner. Azure kingfishers meanwhile observe from branches above, waiting to swoop on prey. Crabs, oysters, and other crustaceans cling to riverside boulders, trying to hide in stillness. The silence is broken only by the chorus of chirping crickets that pervades all over.

Small stretches of sand can be found along the banks at various points but only twice long enough to form proper beaches. First up, Wants Beach at Audley within the national park curves round underneath a stoned wall and picnic area. Yellow-green and silver water reflects the foliage and clouds above, sporadically rippled by the passing of a family of ducks. Toddlers play along the shore amongst the scattered leaves of a forest red gum, their parents watching on from fold up chairs under the shade of the tree's trunk. 

Wants Beach

Rent a kayak from nearby at the Audley Boatshed for a leisurely glide winding downstream to the river’s second beach at Shallow Rock. At the edge of civilisation, houses perch in the trees over the reserve. A popular spot for family picnics, the cries of playing children here merge with the squawks of river herons and visiting seagulls competing for bream and flathead with fishermen’s lines cast from the river’s edge.

The Hacking River extends from Shallow Rock Reserve

This may be the final beach along the river but those who venture further are sure to be rewarded. A small boat ramp here can launch trailer boats, canoes, and kayaks to explore into Port Hacking, where swimming spots are a plenty. Plunge into the netted pools at Gymea Bay and Lilli Pilli before paddling the pristine beaches of Bundeena. I’ll be back soon to continue my quest.  

Total Beaches: 55/179

Georges River Mouth (Sandringham Beaches, Rocky Point, Taren Point Beaches, Taren Point Shorebird Reserve, Woolooware Bay, Holts Marine Beach)

There are a handful of lesser-known and not-so-frequented small beaches on the Georges River mouth to the West of Botany Bay. Having to compete with the high standards of Sydney harbour and ocean beaches, these beaches don’t receive much attention. Some are a little gross, some a little dangerous, and some not too accessible. But they do hold a certain charm.  

As the George’s River hosts a great deal of small sandy stretches, I’ve had to further specify my definition of what constitutes a beach for this leg of the quest. I’m adopting Professor Andy Short’s definition of a beach as a stretch of sand longer than 20 metres and remaining dry at high tide. Professor Short is the former director of the Coastal Studies Unit at the University of Sydney and has travelled Australia listing and studying the continent’s 10, 685 beaches. If anyone knows their stuff it’s him.

Although they didn’t quite make the cut, honourable mentions go out to Taren Point Reserve and Tom Uglys Bridge.

Sandringham

The three Sandringham beaches are up first though. Around the corner from Lady Robinsons, they're pretty much an extension of Sydney’s second largest beach but not as busy. Picnic in the parks, swim in the nets, or waddle in the knee high water. Low energy beaches with shallow sand banks. Perfect for the family.

Rocky Point lies round the corner past the St George sailing Club. The water is shallow, the sand gunky, and the spikes of randomly scattered rocks must be avoided like land mines. Oyster shells at the shore make it difficult to enter but two jetties offer as launch pads to the river. The larger one is privately owned by a boating company and the receptionist may be mad if you’re not there to book a cruise. So I’d try the smaller jetty – just avoid the fishermen’s lines and you’ll be fine. I mean I seriously doubt people actually swim here but I survived so why not try it. I’m counting it.

Rocky Point & the Captain Cook Bridge

Taren Point East

From here cross the Captain Cook Bridge to Rocky Point’s equally pointy neighbour. At Taren’s Point two low sand pits converge. Access the eastern beach via Woodland Road past suburban driveways parked with boats. Ignore the sewage treatment system and a broken fence with ‘keep out’ signs falling off. I was fine after my swim. No deformities to speak of yet.

Taren Point South-West

Hop on the path, round past fishermen trying their luck under the bridge, to the beach on the south-western arm. This beach is backed by Mansions, a backyard for the Shire’s rich and famous (those who couldn’t quite afford a Vaucluse property). This beach is public though – as all in Sydney are. Stay a while; don’t let the rich hog our public spaces.

Taren point Shorebird Reserve

Swimming is also possible at the two reserves at Taren Point. At Taren Point Shorebird Reserve a dingy lays stranded on a wide stretch of sand. Footprints chase after retreating waters at low tide. Oyster shells and seaweed lay abandoned where the shore once was. Mangroves stretch out calling across to their separated cousins over at Towra Point.

Just south from here is a small white sand beach backed by the Woolooware Bay Shared Pathway. Sweaty joggers and cyclists look down in envy over white sand and saltmarsh as you sink in reprieve from the glaring sun. Float and observe migratory shorebirds come to escape the harsh artic winter, their holiday home found on the nearby island manmade by sand. 

Woolooware Bay

At Taren Point Reserve a much more narrow  shore backs onto shallow waters and a maze of row boats. Crawl along on all fours and hide in the jumble. Find your way out and perch yourself on the grassy reserve. Silence. Only the occasional distant calls of river birds break the air.

Taren Point Reserve

Across the shore from here is Holts Marine Beach. Come here to further avoid the crowds. You’ll be the only one swimming. Collect your thoughts as you walk out along the unusually long jetty. If you ever felt like standing in the middle of the Georges River, here’s your chance.

Tom Uglys at low tide

From here I noticed a couple families munching on burgers, fish and chips. Intrigued I followed the scent back on the streets to arrive at the world renowned ‘Pauls Famous Burgers’ situated on the Princes Highway.

I only had $4.50 on me though so I had to settle for small chips; but with just the right amount of chicken salt and a satisfying crunch I wasn’t mad. I will have to come back for a burger though. I hear they’re pretty good. 

Down a small hill from here you can enjoy your feed from Pauls and a quick swim underneath Tom Uglys Bridge before popping on the Princes Highway for the drive home. Bob’s your uncle. Easy.  

Total Beaches: 42/179

Cabarita Beach

The Inner West finally has its own beach. No more must you trek to the Eastern Suburbs’ ocean waters to escape the heat. No longer must you cook yourself in your car stuck in Cleveland Street traffic. No further will you have to endure the hours long 370 bus ride lost twisting through the streets of suburbia. 

The Inner West’s best kept secret Cabarita Beach nestled on the Parramatta River lies awaiting. Since 2015 it’s been deemed clean and safe for swimming. The polluted waste has been removed leaving refreshing water that swells calmly onto shell-layered white sand. Located at the northern end of the expansive Cabarita Park, it’s perfect for a quick dip after picnicking under the shade of a giant fig tree.

Source: http://www.parraparents.com.au/parks-playgrounds/cabarita-park-cabarita/

To be frank though the water is still pretty murky and the odd plastic bottle does drift by. And although safe to swim, it can be hard not to think about the industrial toxins that for years flowed through. Plus you do miss the smell of the ocean and the feel of salt on the skin - also the energy of crashing waves and views stretching out to sea.

On second thoughts I might just endure the Cleveland Street traffic.

Total beaches: 27/160