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My Quest to Visit Every Sydney Beach

The Australian beach. A social icon. With 85 per cent of us living by the coast, for many it represents a way of life. A part of our natio...

Friday, December 21, 2018

Bradleys Head Walk & the Athol Bay Beaches

Join me back in the lower North Shore this week to explore the beaches along Bradleys Head Walk – a natural wonderland, native fauna and flora galore, in the heart of the city.

Dense vegetation. Lush bushland. Eucalypts, honeysuckles, and red gums. Water dragons hog your path in front. Bush turkeys gobble at your feet. Kookaburras giggle in the distance.

Photo Jamie Plaze. Source: Native Plants of Sydney Harbour
National Park, Doug Benson
Peek through the trees for Harbour views, to Bradleys Head and out along the protruding amphitheatre – an unrivalled panorama – the photo hotspot. Awe-struck tourists. Proud locals. Lovers and sunset weddings.


From here a running dive and you’re in the centre of Sydney Harbour. The Bridge and Opera House sit in your hands before you, their wonder inescapable. Revel for a while. You do not want to leave.

But on you persist. Back on the path there’s more to see. An unnamed beach is drawing you in. Under the walkway barrier and stumble down. A rock-strewn off-track twists through the gums. Branches reach out yearningly over a seaweed spotted shore. The green sea rescues you from their grasp.



Flee out to The Island where glasses of champagne are gulped diligently. A floating shipping container converted into a bar, frequented by Sydney’s finest. Try to climb aboard but don’t expect a welcome invitation. Tye-dye board shorts clash with the all-white colour scheme.

So, back to the ocean where you belong and over to the main beach of Athol Bay, where soft winds scatter over a drowsy swell building slightly under passing sails. Dodge the pulse of jellyfish fusing with the sea. Wash up onto shore. Rest and stay a while in the peaceful parting sun.

But quick there’s still more to discover. A secluded beach under a neighbouring wharf is waiting patiently. Watch your feet though. Danger signs. A bin for washed up needles, threats to pristine beauty. Tread carefully on golden sands and into safe clear waters. Seagulls perform over the ferry wharf. Families leave Taronga Zoo. Climb on up and take a seat. This is your ride home too.


Total Count: 14/160

Thursday, December 13, 2018

Foreshores Beach


I tread in the shadow of shipping containers piled to the sky. Slimy sand oozes between my toes. Acidic waters singe my skin. My ears cannot escape the constant thunder of trucks passing behind and planes above.

I’m at Foreshores beach. Squeezed between Kingsford Smith Airport and Port Botany, it’s Sydney’s most polluted. The only spot to be given a ‘very poor’ rating by a government report ranking cleanliness of NSW beaches and swimming sites, indicating a high susceptibility to faecal contaminations from sewage overflows and therefore unsuitable for swimming. A few years ago it even turned orange. Still no one knows why.

Picture: Brett CostelloSource: News Corp Australia

You technically are allowed to swim here though as long as it hasn’t been raining recently – a little surprising given Sydney’s overprotective rules and regulations. That’s better than the Cooks River on the other side of the airport. One of the most polluted waterways in Australia, it’s been closed to swimmers for over 80 years due to a regular influx of rubbish, industrial toxic waste, and sewage from more than 150 overflow points. From early on in the colonial years, once Sydney Harbour was chosen as the more suitable place for white settlement, Botany Bay quickly became the industrial heartland, the river’s side especially exploited for both its water resources and dumping grounds. 

Milica didn't seem to mind.
In all honesty though, the beach is nowhere near as bad as the river. Without the industrial shipping backdrop and surround sound of roaring engines it would actually be quite pleasant. Shell-layered white sand dunes merge with light blue crystalline waters. Unleashed visiting dogs frolic on the shallow shore. The fact it borders an airport even gives it a sort of novel charm as pelicans depart and land in tandem with jumbo jets in the distance.
That’s not to say I’ll necessarily be back here any time soon, with much better options nearby still to explore, but it definitely isn’t as bad I was expecting. I don’t know - maybe I just came on a good day.


Total Count: 9/160 

Hayes St Beach

The water gently ripples under the effortless strokes of an elderly gentleman’s oars as he masterfully spins his row-boat round and pulls into shore. Out from hiding at his feet a welsh corgi eagerly jumps overboard. It waddles across the sand to promptly return with a plastic Gatorade bottle clenched between a grin. The man affectionately praises the dog, taking the bottle and adding it to a half-filled garbage bag.

It’s sadly increasingly common to see or hear of plastic rubbish lining our beaches and filling our oceans, dropped or left behind after a day at the beach or carried by wind and rain into drainage networks and rivers flowing into sea.

An estimated 2.41 million tonnes of plastic enter the ocean each year, the stronger more buoyant plastics floating via converging ocean currents and accumulating in enormous islands of trash. The Great Pacific Garbage Patch, the largest and perhaps most famous, is estimated to cover a surface area of 1.6 million square kilometres –three times the size of France – hosting conservative estimates of 1.8 trillion pieces of plastic and weighing up to 80,000 tonnes.

These harder plastics can take up to 450 years to decompose, first breaking down into smaller plastics and then persisting, not only on water surfaces but as far down as the ocean floor. Small and colourful, animals often mistake these plastics for food, resulting in malnutrition and poisoning from the plastics’ toxic chemicals.

Humans too risk being contaminated. As chemicals in plastics enter the body of the animal feeding on the plastic, they are then passed onto any predators feeding on them and then further onto higher predators up the food chain.

And it’s not only our health these plastics are threatening, but our wallets too, with environmental damage approximating 13 billion USD a year in financial losses incurred by fisheries and beach cleanups.

Unfortunately the secretive nature of Hayes Street Beach doesn’t help much to keep the rubbish out. Tucked away down the back hills of Neutral Bay, accessible through a little walk way slyly placed between two buildings, it’s easy to miss. Yet, one of the closest beaches to the CBD, a quick trip across the Harbour Bridge or ferry ride from Circular Quay, it remains unable to hide itself from rubbish deviously floating in from Sydney Harbour.

While Sydney hosts some of the cleanest beaches in the world and has improved dramatically over the last two decades, it’s still not perfect. Last year out of 97 swimming sites tested, 17 received poor ratings for water quality. Only the tireless work of local volunteer conservationists like this man and his dog keep beautiful spots like this unspoiled.

Luckily today isn’t too bad. Within a few minutes the loosely scattered trash along the shore and shallow water has been cleared. The man throws his trash bag into the boat, gives the corgi a boost in, and clambers over after it. A few leisurely strokes and they disappear around the bay leaving a pristine space for just me and a handful of others to enjoy, reminded of our responsibility to preserve it for yet another day.

A clean Hayes St Beach

Click here to find out how you can get involved in helping to keep Sydney Harbour clean. 


Total Count: 9/160

Thursday, December 6, 2018

Obelisk Beach, Balmoral Beach & Edwards Beach

The clouds have subsided, the weather’s fine, Ricky’s chucking a sickie, and I don’t start till 4pm. We decide to do the only sensible thing we know how and hit the beach. We’re feeling adventurous and so agree to find a secluded spot Ricky once stumbled upon inside Sydney Harbour National Park just over the bridge in the North.

Not long and we’re swerving our way through the back streets of Mosman, hitting a few dead ends, before the houses start to disappear and we’re greeted by a lush bushland. Ricky soon recognises the opening to a track and we pull over. Down some narrow steps through the greenery we swiftly emerge to the scenic views of Sydney harbour, sparkling blues dancing under an empty sky - and then the not so scenic views of fat naked old men. Ricky swears he didn’t know this one’s a nudist beach. That’s not necessarily a problem, but it being a small beach with currently more skin than sand we decide it’s best we take a quick dip and keep exploring.

So w
e hop in the car and drive round the head to the yacht speckled crystal clear waters of Balmoral Beach situated in Hunters Bay. We avoid the $9 per hour parking on the main road and find a free spot a few streets back - behind an esplanade of cafes and restaurants ranging from every beachy suburb’s must-have fish and chips to North-Shore style fine dining. Laying our towels on the white sand and nesting in the shade of the promenade we look out upon the heads enclosing harbour waters timidly escaping out to sea. 

A quiet and relaxed atmosphere provides the perfect opportunity to dig into my novel for a short while before I give into temptation and dip into the calm inviting waters. As I surface and turn back to shore I’m greeted by a forestry backdrop surrounding the bay intersected by a promenade lined with grand old fig-trees. I float and bask in the surrounding beauty.

Soon, with the weather starting to turn and my afternoon shift looming, I reluctantly paddle back to shore and grab my things to try to leave. But first the tantalising vibrant blue waters of neighbouring Edwards Beach, separated only by the arched concrete bridge that leads to Rocky Point, are drawing me in. I give in for a quick submersion which begs for more but will have to do for now. 

I’ll be back soon though. I still need to explore Chinaman's Beach just around Wyargine Point to the north, as well as Cobbler’s Beach over on the head to the East. I’ll be back soon enough for their deep blues and scenic views. 


Balmoral Beach. Source: https://sydney-city.blogspot.com


Total Beaches: 8/160

Hermitage Foreshore Walk (Shark Bay, Milk Beach, Hermits Bay, Tingara Beach, Queens Beach)


I begin my journey with an old favourite Shark Bay - or Nielsen Park as it’s most commonly called referring to the harbour park in which it lies - perfect for picnics under sheltered fig trees, Christmas Day games of cricket on the expansive lawns, exploring the area by kayak, or just kicking back in the sun.


With a net keeping out the sharks and the harbour keeping out the waves it doesn’t get much safer. Enjoy a meal at the Nielsen Park CafĂ© or an ice cream from a passing vendor, and then venture out along the rocks (avoiding the oysters) or through the park’s paths to discover new sights and marvels.



Insider tip for the more daring: follow the Hermitage Foreshore Walk and keep an eye out for an opening to the large rocks over the ocean, perfect from which to plunge into the ocean.
Younger me plunges in

Keep following along the Hermitage Foreshore Walk (or swim if you’ve got the stamina) for a spoilt choice of secret secluded beaches with incredible views. Let your eyes wander out through the leafy flora, across the turquoise waters, past Shark Island, to distant sailing ships gliding in front of a backdrop of striking Sydney City.


Starting with Milk Beach on the back lawns of the mid-19th century mansion ‘Strickland House’, make your way to Hermits Bay perfect for a cool tinnie in the shade of a parked tug boat, before journeying down the rocky steps to Tingara Beach and then finishing off at Queens Beach for the most majestic views of them all.

Be aware you may get the odd party yacht of wealthy youths pulling into bay on a summer’s Saturday – but don’t worry any other day these beaches are as calm as it gets, hardly a soul to share them with.  Only 15 minutes from the CBD but it feels like you’re in paradise. Lie back and enjoy the serenity.

Queens Beach

Total Count: 5/160


My Quest to Visit Every Sydney Beach


The Australian beach. A social icon. With 85 per cent of us living by the coast, for many it represents a way of life. A part of our national identity. A place of freedom and pleasure. A common space to gather, to play, to relax in the sun and cool off in the sea. The perfect place to be on a hot summer’s day.

Sydney especially provides the goods. From surfing at Manly or Cronulla, to sunbathing at Bondi, to fishing at Brighton Le Sands, and picnicking at Palm Beach. Ocean beaches or secret harbour coves. We’ve got it all.  

With the help of Wikipedia, Google Maps, forums and exploring I’ve identified 173 (subject to change) safe and swimmable beaches, which I’m defining as an expanse of sand or pebbles along a shore bordering clean and safe water, in the Sydney region bordered by Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park in the North and the Royal National park in the South. Over 170 beaches and I reckon I’ve visited maybe a quarter of them if that - the majority of those in the Eastern Suburbs.

There’s a lot more to see. So, I’ve decided to escape from my set ways. No more spending every free moment at Gordon’s Bay. I’m embarking on a quest to visit and swim at them all. And to prove it I’ll record each trip with a piece of writing, be it a short review, a descriptive piece, or something more experimental.