Bundeena (Deeban Spit, Bonnie Vale Beach, Horderns Beach, Gunyah Beach, Jibbon Beach)

A roar of engines snarls at me as I enter the Port Hacking estuary, confronting me like a pack of unyielding guard dogs before restricted territory. It’s a stark contrast to the welcoming calmness of Burraneer Bay from where I’ve paddled over. I’m no longer accompanied by gently bobbing sailboats resting anchored to the seafloor, nor by stand-up paddle boarders drifting along in quiet contemplation. Instead, hordes of shrieking speedboats and their jet ski kin prowl the water around me, churning the surface into a bubbling soup of froth.  

They stand towering between me and the village suburb of Bundeena. Located on Sydney’s most southern outskirts, surrounded by the vast Royal National Park, this slice of paradise is blessed with five pristine beaches to call its own. But getting there isn’t so easy. it’s a hefty 70-minute drive from the CBD - or 90 minutes if you’d rather avoid the traffic by taking a train to Cronulla, followed by a ferry ride across Port Hacking. Alternatively, it’s a mere 40-minute drive to the boat ramp in Burraneer Bay for a breezy kayak across...  or so I’d thought.

The incessant barraging of motorboat wakes is making me regret my decision. Gripping the sides of my kayak in a frantic bid for control, I find my cries of protest drowned out by the howling engines and slamming waves. Their spray blinds me as I’m swept into a surging current, driven deeper into the heart of the storm.

No longer in control, all I can do is watch as I’m hurled straight towards a looming wharf piling, rising menacingly from the sea. The collision comes with a violent thud, sending shockwaves through my body. Thrown off balance, my kayak flips, and I’m tossed into the ferocious currents, the world around me transforming into a blur of water and turmoil. Gasping for air, I cling desperately to the overturned hull, but a watery grave seems destined to be my end.

Until an outstretched hand breaks through the chaos.

Grasping it, I’m pulled - kayak and all – out of the jaws of fate, swiftly deposited on a nearby sandy shore, all in a rush of motion.

Brushing aside my stammered thanks with a quick nod, a humble jet skier vanishes back into the estuary, leaving me alone, breathless and disoriented.  Gradually, though, the quiet, sheltered environment soothes me, providing a peaceful respite from what I’ve just endured.

When I recover, I realise I’m on the Deeban Spit - a narrow sand spit that juts 1.2 km from the coast to separate Port Hacking from the open ocean – and I remember what I’ve come to do. This is Bundeena’s first beach as you approach from the west, and I’m on a quest to visit them all. I’m not going to let a mere near death experience get in my way.

Deeban Spit in background

So, I’m soon back on my kayak, paddling towards my next destinations.

Up first, just across the bay, is Bonnie Vale. The sheltered beach’s serene atmosphere, with calm, clear, and shallow waters, makes it particularly inviting after my ordeal. Young families seem to think so too. They enjoy dips in the shore and paddles on kayaks and stand-up boards available for rent from the sand. Behind us a grassy picnic area features waddling ducks, fragrant banksias, and smoky barbeques sizzling burgers for big-bellied bystanders.

Bonnie Vale Beach

It's possible to stay the night here at the Bonnie Vale Campground, but I’m continuing on, around the rocks of Cabbage Tree Point, to venture to Bundeena’s main beach, Hordens. The ferry wharf here is where I would have got off if I had decided to play it safe.

Fringed by residential homes and shaded areas provided by coastal vegetation, the beach’s sandy stretch spans about 600 metres, offering plenty of space for leisurely strolls, beach activities, or setting in for a day by the water. With nearby shops, picnic spots, and public toilets, you’ll never have to leave.

Hordens Beach

Unfortunately, many others today have had just that same idea. So, before long, I’m continuing on to find something more secluded. Just my luck - around the corner lies Gunyah Beach, the locals’ best kept secret.

Access on foot is limited to private stairs descending from a row of beachfront houses or a small hidden, path from the street above, restricted to those in the know. I myself sneak in between the resident’s parked boats to pull up on the shore. Small patches of soft, golden sand quickly merge with the rugged rocky edges of the beach, upon which I lay my towel. I stay for a while, watching snorkelers in their underwater adventures under commanding views of the Cronulla Peninsula in the distance.

Gunyah Beach

I’ve still got one more beach to get to though before the day is up. Technically within the Royal National Park, the larger Jibbon Beach borders the eastern edge of Bundeena and is accessible from the street. Still, it’s relatively secluded, framed by rugged rock shelfs and lush greenery, which divide the beach from Jibbon Lagoon.  

Some yachts have pulled up today among the beach’s tranquil waves. They’re blaring 70s hits from their decks, enjoyed by older passengers basking in the afternoon sun, reliving their golden days. Yet, if you listen carefully amongst Stevie Nick’s high notes, you can still hear the birdcalls of the eastern yellow robin, superb fairy wren, and various honeyeaters that inhabit the surrounding area.

Jibbon Beach

Jibbon Beach serves as the kick off point for various walking trails through the park and around the seaside cliffs. But with the day drawing to a close, I’ll have to save those for some other time. For now, my thoughts turn anxiously to the treacherous waters I still have to paddle back through.

Perhaps, if I’m lucky, a ferry will take pity on me and agree to tow me across instead.

Total Beaches: 94/178